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PESHAWAR, Nov 02 (APP): As the chill of winter sweeps across Peshawar Valley, the city’s food scene comes alive with mouthwatering aromas that awaken the senses and at the heart of this seasonal culinary celebration lies one timeless favorite ie the grilled masher fish of River Kabul.
For the people of Peshawar, winter is not just a change in weather, but it is a return to cherished traditions, family gatherings, and the irresistible taste of freshly caught fish from the region’s storied rivers of Kabul, Jindhay, and Shahalam and mighty Sindh.
Renowned not only for its Gandhara heritage and legendary artists, Peshawar has long been a paradise for food lovers.
From the delectable bites of chappli kabab to the savory siri paye, the city’s streets especially in the iconic Namak Mandi bustle with locals and tourists seeking the warmth of authentic flavors. But as the air turns crisp in November, it’s the masher that steals the spotlight.
“With start of winter, we receive a substantial supply of masher and trout from fish farms in Swabi, Charsadda, Kaghan, Swat, and Kalam valleys,” said Riaz Khan, a seasoned fish vendor with more than a decade in the trade at Ganta Ghar.
“We marinate the fish with traditional spices, pomegranate seed powder, and chili sauces, then fry it till golden. Served with fries, salad, and naan that is the perfect comfort meal.”
Riaz explained that marriage halls are now his biggest customers. “We get bulk orders every week. It’s our busiest season,” he added with a smile.
For many, the masher isn’t just food rather it’s nostalgia served on a plate. Fayaz Khan, a retired teacher, fondly recalled his childhood winters in Swabi.
“My father used to grill freshly caught masher by the riverside. I come here every year with my family to relive those memories and share this tradition with my son,” he said.
Health experts also praise the masher for its nutritional value. Dr. Malik Riaz Khan, a child specialist at Govt hospital Pabbi Nowshera said that regular fish consumption boosts immunity during the colder months.
“Fish is rich in proteins, omega-3 fatty acids, and essential vitamins that strengthen the body against winter ailments like flu and joint pain, urging people to make it part of diet,” he explained.
The growing appetite for fish across Khyber Pakhtunkhwa has fueled a boom in aquaculture. According to Usman Ali, General Secretary of the KP Fish Farming Association, around five lakh people are currently employed in masher and trout farming.
“With proper investment and technical support, fish farming can be a profitable venture. We just need sustained government backing to recover from flood damages and temperature fluctuations,” he said.
Responding to this need, the KP government has launched several projects to promote fisheries, including the Trout Village Project in Hazara and Malakand divisions. These initiatives have helped establish dozens of new masher and trout farms, with cost-sharing mechanisms to support small farmers. Efforts are also underway to develop cold-water fisheries and reservoirs to enhance production.
However KP various rivers being lifelines of its fish industry face growing threats to fash farming.
Pollution from plastic waste, marble units, and hotel effluents continues to endanger aquatic ecosystems in the Kabul, Kunhar, and Swat rivers.
Environmentalists urged urgent action for sustainable waste management to safeguard these natural treasures and take action against pollution transmitting industries.
The marble waste of Warsak Road Peshawar and Buner are adversally impacting water population, threatening masher and trout population.
They urged CM KP to step in and save aquatic resources like masher from possible extinction.
As the city braces for another chilly winter, the scent of grilled masher wafting through Peshawar’s lanes serves as a reminder that food here is not just sustenance, it’s a story of culture, livelihood, and community, passed down through generations.